Last week, I stood inches away from the personal wardrobe of Vivienne Westwood, the celebrated fashion designer, lifelong activist, and godmother of punk. The experience was fascinating, and fun, and very inspiring.
Over the past two weeks, Christie’s, the auction house, held a sale, both online and off, of Vivienne’s personal clothing. The proceeds benefitted the charities that Vivienne championed in her lifetime. There was also an exhibition, free to the public, prior to the auction. That is how I found myself attempting to subtly scoot as close as I could to some of Vivienne’s most iconic looks.
This week, all of the outfit prompts are inspired by my experience at the exhibition and by Vivienne, herself.
Before attending the exhibit, I revisited the Spring 2024 collection from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. Andreas, Vivienne’s widow, designed the entire collection in homage to Vivienne’s personal wardrobe. Each of the 40 looks directly correlated to an outfit she wore, and loved, in her lifetime. I adored this collection. It didn’t have the concise color palette or repeated shapes that are often synonymous with runway shows, yet it all felt part of the same universe, the universe of a whole person. (Also, what a wonderful expression of love!)
Inside the exhibit, it was clear that many of the outfits that inspired Andreas were on display. And just like the collection, Vivienne’s clothing was full of variety. It contained so many of her hallmarks as a designer, from manipulation of fabric and shape, to her love of history, but it was also full of surprises. There was a wide range of color, of shape, of texture, of “vibe.” It was at times casual, formal, rigid, or flowing.
Our current zeitgeist loves a fashion label. Is your style boho? Preppy? Classic? Coastal Grandma? Personally, I’ve been guilty of being too committed to my category. I’ve passed on beautiful pieces that I’ve loved because they weren’t in line with my “three words” or my style title. Looking at Vivienne’s clothes, I couldn’t justify why I’d want to continue doing this. Why am I so obedient to an idea, or three adjectives, or what someone else finds stylish? What’s the point of the deprivation? If each of us is our own style universe, can’t we expand? Can you relinquish your style obedience this week, and wear an outfit that broadens your fashion universe?
The exhibit was arranged so that most of the mannequins were visible from the front and back. (They were for sale, after all!) I was struck by how many of the outfits were simple in front, but intricate and interesting from the back. Can you wear an outfit this week with a focus on the back?
On September 11th, 2015, Vivienne donned a structured, linen cape, mounted a tank, and drove it to David Cameron’s country home. Cameron had passed legislation approving 27 sites in Oxfordshire for fracking and Vivienne was protesting. Her entire outfit from that day was included in the auction. The cape, in person, with its unique shape and the way, as linen, it held structure, was stunning. It also struck me as the perfect silent communicator for her protest. With its armor-like shape, it conveyed that she was there to put up a fight. By being made of linen, a natural fiber, it represented her values around protecting the earth. What subtle symbols can you utilize this week? Can you construct an outfit that communicates your values?
Each of the walls in the exhibit was emblazoned with a quote from Vivienne. My favorite, and perhaps her most well known quote, is this one:
Can you build yourself an interesting life this week, and wear impressive clothes? What does “impressive” in this context mean for you?
If any of these prompts inspire an outfit for you, please let me know! I’d love to see your looks!
Are you a Vivienne fan? A collector? Do you have a favorite Vivienne design era?
If you’re new to Vivienne, and intrigued to learn more, I thought this episode of the podcast, Dressed, was a great primer. Over two episodes, fashion journalist, Alexander Fury, works through Vivienne’s journey as a fashion designer.
Wishing you a week of stylish disobedience!
Your friend,
Rebecca